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Grateful to Have Survived

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And grateful to be alive were the main emotions after an afternoon surf session at the infamous Mexican Pipeline in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico. I’d just arrived from Los Angeles on a red eye flight and was excited to catch the tail end of an XXL swell which had brought 30 ft waves just days […]

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School Wasn’t Cool

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  If I remember right it was the summer of 2007. I still lived in my father’s house in Los Angeles and had no idea it would be the last summer I’d spend with my Dad before he died just after my 19th birthday. I was all in when it came to playing guitar and […]

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